“A washer drain consists of 2-inch drainpipe (typically schedule 40 PVC) with a stand pipe of around 36-inch that feeds into a 2-inch, horizontal P-trap,” says Bob Beall, president of Mr. Rooter Plumbing.

WHAT CAN GO WRONG:  Codes require a horizontal run after the trap of at least twice the pipe diameter, or 4-inch for a 2-inch drain.  This horizontal run keeps the P-trap from functioning as an unintentional and illegal S-trap.  The horizontal distance reference is from the trap weir (the water in the trap) to the bend of the elbo9w or T-fitting, not the length of horizontal pipe between the two.

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“Using a standard box, a 2-inch trap may not fit a 16-inch cavity if the horizontal run pipe is kept at 4-inches (twice the pipe diameter) or longer. (This refers to the stud width),” says Beall.  A washer trap fits easily if the stud cavity is lengthened to 18-inches.  According to Mr. Rooter, “using a split box allows the waswher trap and stand pipe to be in the same wall cavity without interference from the water line.”

Once the valves and drain are in place, Beall continues, “it’s time to hook up the washer.”  This means connecting the washer hoses to the washer and the valves in the washer box as well as connecting the washer drain.

Mr. Rooter’s Tip Of The Day

Tip #1  Just before you push the washer in place, tighten the washer hoses on the washer solenoid.

Tip #2  Attach the opposite end of the washer hoses to the valves in the washer box.

Tip #3  Be sure to keep hot to hot and cold to cold when you attach the hose ends to the valves in the box.  Then insert the end of the washer drain hose into the drainpipe of the washer box.

Tip #4  Turn the water on, and check for leaks.  To verify hot is hot and cold is cold, turn the washer to cold was and check that cold water is going into the tub.

WHAT CAN GO WRONG:  In new construction, most codes require washer outlets to be roughed in, even if the owner doesn’t want them.

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